Right now in the Dolomites
Day plan
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Map of all locations
Itinerary · 8 days
Day 1
Sat 4 Jul
Arrival · groceries · sunset
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Drive: Zagreb 06:00 → La Val 13:00–14:00 (~6h via Slovenia + Tarvisio + Pustertal). Coffee stop around Tarvisio.
A-plan — full afternoon
- Check in at B&B Ciasa Aois (Str. San Senese 22), unload.
- Drive ~22-25 min north to Brunico — Eurospar/MPreis/Despar — big grocery shop.
- Optional sunset drive (~35 min) to Passo delle Erbe / Würzjoch — golden hour on Geisler/Odle. Sunset ~21:00.
B-plan — exhausted from driving
- Grocery run only. Walk in the village. Early dinner.
C-plan — raining
- Just the grocery run. Get home, decompress.
Dinner
Home, light — speck, cheese, bread, tomato, wine.
Day 2
Sun 5 Jul
Plan de Corones warm-up + museums
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A-plan — Kronplatz plateau + museums
- Drive ~25-30 min to Kronplatz cable car (Olang/Reischach base).
- Cable car up (~€30pp). 360° panorama at 2275m.
- MMM Corones (Messner Mountain Museum, Zaha Hadid, ~€10).
- Lumen Museum of mountain photography (~€18). Excellent.
- Plateau walks 1–3h. Concordia bell, summit cross.
- Lunch at refuge (Corones, Belvedere) or picnic.
B-plan — mixed weather socks summit
- Adolf Munkel Weg (Val di Funes), 12 km, 400m gain, 4h. Trail sits below the Odle towers, fine in mist.
- Lunch at Geisler Alm or Brogles Alm.
C-plan — rain
- Castel Tor / Museum Ladin in San Martino in Badia (~10 min from home).
- Brunico old town stroll, indoor café.
- Cron4 thermal spa (~25 min) — pools, sauna.
Dinner
Day 3
Mon 6 Jul
Tre Cime di Lavaredo — signature #1
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A-plan — full classic loop (must be dry)
- Drive ~85-90 min to Misurina → toll road to Rif. Auronzo parking (2333m).
- Loop counterclockwise: Auronzo → Lavaredo → Rif. Locatelli / Drei Zinnen Hütte → Forcella Col di Mezzo → back to Auronzo.
- ~10 km, 400m gain, 4–5h with stops.
- Lunch at Rif. Locatelli — canederli, polenta, beer.
- Off the mountain by 14:00–15:00.
B-plan — mixed forecast
- Out-and-back to Locatelli only. 3h. Off exposed terrain by noon.
C-plan — wet/storms
- Swap with Tue's Brixen day.
Dinner
Home — you'll be tired.
Day 4
Tue 7 Jul
Brixen + Abbazia di Novacella · recovery
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A-plan — Abbey + town + pools
- ~09:00 drive ~40-45 min to Abbazia di Novacella (Stift Neustift). Library + basilica + cloisters tour ~€11. The Rococo library alone is worth the trip — often called the "Sistine Chapel of libraries". Stroll the abbey's herb garden afterward.
- Drive 5 min south into Brixen old town. Lunch on the Domplatz.
- Hofburg Brixen — prince-bishops' palace, art museum, beautiful courtyards (~€8).
- Afternoon — pick:
- Acquarena Brixen — modern indoor + outdoor thermal pools right in the town center. Saunas, rooftop sundeck. Recovery heaven, ~€18 half-day.
- Cron4 thermal spa in Reischach (~25 min from home) — if you'd rather drive back first.
- Chocolatier + pastry crawl: Pupp Patisserie, Christoph Bäckerei, gelato around the cathedral square.
- Pre-dinner aperitivo / cocktail on a Domplatz terrace.
- Nap.
Dinner
Out in Brixen (Vitis / Sunnegg / Fink / Finsterwirt) or home.
Day 5
Wed 8 Jul
Seceda ridge — signature #2
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A-plan — Seceda → Pieralongia → Col Raiser traverse
- Drive ~55-60 min to Ortisei (St. Ulrich).
- Gondola Ortisei → Furnes → Seceda (~€42pp return). Open 08:30 — go early.
- From summit station (2519m), walk the ridge eastward. Geisler/Odle group in front.
- Short: Seceda → Pieralongia → Col Raiser (~8 km, 3–4h).
- Long: Seceda → Pieralongia → Rif. Firenze → Forcella Pana → Col Raiser (~14 km, 5–6h).
- Lunch at Rif. Pieralongia or Rif. Firenze.
B-plan — mixed
- Short Pieralongia loop, bail back to Seceda lift if storms threaten.
C-plan — wet
- Cinque Torri WW1 trail OR Bolzano + Ötzi (75 min).
Dinner
Home — keep legs recovering.
Day 6
Thu 9 Jul
Fanes plateau OR via ferrata
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Option A — Fanes-Sennes alpine plateau
- Drive ~20 min to San Vigilio. Then ~15-20 min by car or shuttle bus to Pederü.
- Hike: Pederü → Rif. Fanes / Lavarella → Lago di Limo → return.
- 15–18 km, 700–900m gain, 6–7h.
- The least-crowded signature hike. Marmots, plateau, two legendary refuges. Lavarella brews own beer.
Option B — Guided via ferrata starter
- Pre-booked with Alta Badia / San Vigilio guides. Gear + instruction included.
- Likely routes: Sass de Stria, Piz da Lech, or Averau.
- ~€130–180pp. Must be dry rock.
B-plan if both weathered out
- Cinque Torri WW1 open-air museum (50 min). 3–4h, low risk.
Dinner
Day 7
Fri 10 Jul
Lago di Braies sunrise + flex afternoon
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A-plan — sunrise + WW1 afternoon
- Alarm 04:30. Drive ~50-55 min to Lago di Braies. Sunrise arrival exempt from reservation system. Sunrise ~05:20.
- Walk around the lake (3.5 km flat, 1h). Photograph the boathouse.
- Rowboat when rentals open ~10:00.
- Breakfast at lakeside café or bakery in Niederdorf on the way back.
- Afternoon — pick one:
- Cinque Torri WW1 museum (50 min south).
- Plätzwiese / Prato Piazza alpine meadow.
- Cortina wander — shops, gelato.
- Home + cook + pack.
B-plan — storms
- Braies sunrise anyway, pivot afternoon to Bolzano + Ötzi Museum.
C-plan — full rain
- Skip Braies. Bolzano + Ötzi all day.
Dinner
Last night splurge if you saved one, or home with the rest of the wine.
Day 8
Sat 11 Jul
Departure to Istria
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- Slow breakfast at home or bakery in San Martin.
- Pack the car.
- Optional 2h activity: Castel Tor museum, or short forest walk.
- Leave by 12:00–13:00.
Route options (~5h)
- Fast (A22): Brennero south → Verona → A4 east → Trieste → Istria. Tolls ~€25–35.
- Scenic: Passo Falzarego → Cortina → Belluno → Treviso → Trieste. ~30 min longer, prettier.
Hikes · 39 trails by tier
Researched from Alta Badia tourism, Komoot, AllTrails, Moon Honey Travel, Earth Trekkers and others. Each card has a source link with the full description. Drive times measured from La Val.
Tier 1 — Signature Dolomites classics (8 hikes)▶
The canonical hikes everyone does. Plan your "big day" around one of these.
The iconic three-tower loop past Rifugio Lavaredo, Rifugio Locatelli, and the Paternsattel viewpoint of the north faces — the postcard hike of the Dolomites.
Point-to-point through the Adolf Munkel base, then steep scree saddle to the world-famous Seceda fin. Far quieter than the lift-up tourist crowd at Seceda summit.
The classic "wall walk" along the north base of the Geisler/Odle spires — two refuges (Geisler Alm, Malga Brogles) for strudel + speck mid-hike. Beloved for the photography angle.
The milky-turquoise glacial lake under Sorapiss — one of the most photographed lakes in the Dolomites. Some short exposed cable-assisted sections en route, but not technical.
Encircles the Sassolungo/Sassopiatto towers. The panoramic Friedrich-August-Weg balcony to Rifugio Sasso Piatto faces the Marmolada glacier — endless drama.
Cable car up; descend through 1 km of restored WWI Italian assault tunnels with windows blasted into vertical cliffs. Headlamp + helmet mandatory — and arguably the perfect first-ferrata experience.
Three refuges, Italy's highest old refuge (Nuvolau 2575 m) with 360° pano, and the WW1 open-air museum at Cinque Torri. Optional Ferrata Ra Gusela (grade A, 80 m) if curious.
The Dolomites' easiest 3000 m summit (Piz Boè 3152 m), with the Capanna Fassa hut on top for a grappa with a view. Cable car does the elevation lift; you do the rocky last 430 m.
Tier 2 — Close to La Val (12 hikes, trailhead ≤30 min)▶
The biggest gap in my original plan — hikes whose trailheads are in La Val itself or within 30 min. Mostly local-knowledge picks, often empty.
La Val's signature path — Europe-certified meadow trail through the Armentara larch meadows, the Al Bagn sulphur spring, and panoramic huts. Pick the short or long version. From your doorstep.
Climb to the modest 2394 m Piz de Pares summit via Ütia da Rit (lunch) and Lech de Rit biotope lake. Quiet panoramic peak directly above your village. Almost no crowds.
The 15th-century pilgrimage church under the 900 m Sasso di Santa Croce wall, returning via the protected Armentara larch meadows — pure Ladin landscape, the soul of your valley.
Short climb to the 1860 m biotope marsh-lake at Ju de Rit saddle (border with San Vigilio) — protected wetland habitat, larch forest, almost no crowds.
Walk deep into the untouched Antersasc Valley toward the Puez-Odle north walls. No lifts, no restaurants, only meadows and a working malga. Pure quiet.
A "second-tier" summit (2289 m) on the meadow ridge above your village — full panorama of the Sasso di Santa Croce wall, the Puez group, and the Sella. Pleasingly empty.
Cable car up to La Crusc, then walk beneath the colossal east wall to Forcella dla Crusc saddle (2612 m) for huge views. The hiking variant — does not require ferrata kit.
Circular path past the historic Ladin "viles" — clustered wooden farmsteads 600+ years old between 1200–1700 m. Pure cultural / heritage walk, perfect rest-day.
The "Memento vivere" contemplation trail with Stations of the Cross to the lone hilltop St. Barbara chapel — culture, frescoes, and the best village viewpoint.
Skirts the isolated tooth-like 2875 m Sass de Pütia through alpine meadows. Easy ferrata add-on to the summit for ferrata-curious. From Passo delle Erbe, your sunset spot.
The iconic Corvara horn (2665 m). Strenuous but technically modest summit ferrata (~100 m exposed) — the ideal "first real ferrata" graduation route.
Quiet alpine lake under the Lagazuoi south wall, the famous Rifugio Scotoni (grilled lamb!), finish on the panoramic terrace at 2752 m. Excellent food-and-views combination.
Open-meadow plateau at 2100 m with 360° panorama (Marmolada, Sella, Sasso di Santa Croce, Sass de Pütia) and four hut lunch options. Best recovery-day hike with views.
Tier 3 — Alternative big-day hikes (10 hikes)▶
Less-famous full-day routes for strong hikers who want depth, not Instagram crowds.
Crosses high into the Fanes-Sennes plateau via the Sant'Antone saddle. One of the toughest local rounds — big elevation, very few people.
Full traverse to the 3026 m Cima Dieci / Zehnerspitze on the Fanes massif. Strong hikers only — scree, sustained climbing, summit above 3000 m.
Flat green Vallunga valley, then steep climb to the isolated Rifugio Puez (2475 m) on the moonscape Puez plateau — feels like another planet.
The full plateau traverse — high, lunar, two refuges. Requires shuttle or two-car logistics between Val Gardena and Val di Funes. Forcella Roa scree descent is exposed.
Climb via Col de Locia onto the Fanes-Sennes plateau — the legendary "Kingdom of Fanes" with two huts (Lavarella has Europe's highest microbrewery) and Lago di Limo.
Larch-fringed Lago Federa (autumn-postcard lake), Rifugio Croda da Lago for lunch, then over Forcella Ambrizzola (2475 m). The Cortina side's quieter signature.
Iconic suspension bridge finish above the Pisciadù waterfall on the Sella plateau. Ferrata version is 3B (medium — not for first-timers); hiking variant via Val Setus is available.
Tour of the entire Fanes-Sennes plateau through five staffed refuges. The great "Alta Via 1 sampler" in a single epic day, or split as 2-day variant.
Big climb to the 2275 m summit plateau with the Messner Mountain Museum Corones, LUMEN photography museum, and the Concordia 360° trail. Pure quad workout — pure reward.
The 2985 m Sella peak above Rifugio Pisciadù — bigger commitment than a hut visit, cable-assisted sections. Great prep for graduating to real ferrate.
Tier 4 — Easy / short / recovery / family (8 hikes)▶
Half-day strolls, lake circuits, low-effort viewpoints. Perfect post-big-hike days or weather-iffy mornings.
The most photographed lake in the Alps. Shoreline circuit on wide gravel and rock-cut steps. Timed-entry permit required in July-Sep — arrive at 06:00 or use shuttle.
The emerald-green "lake of rainbows" mirroring the Latemar massif — a quick lake-and-coffee stop. Combine with Val d'Ega scenic drive for a relaxed half-day.
Restored WW1 Italian trenches, observatory and cannons around the five photogenic towers. History + family-friendly + epic Cortina panorama.
Europe's largest high-alpine meadow with Sassolungo/Sciliar backdrops; gentle meadow paths past huts. Car access restricted 09–17h; use Seis cable car.
Tiny mirror lake with the colossal Tofana di Rozes reflected. Top sunset photo spot — and you'll be done in 30 minutes if you want.
Flat grassy valley between vertical Puez walls, grazing cows, tiny chapel at the end. The best stroller-grade big-scenery walk in Val Gardena.
The "short" Armentara version — meadows, larches, mini-chapel at La Crusc. Perfect rest-day walk straight from the village. From your doorstep.
Lift up, then meander between Rifugio Pralongià, Bioch and I Tablà on the high-meadow plateau. Pure "lunch with a view" hike with Sella panorama.
Bookings & lead-times
Tap to mark done. State saved on this device.
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Tier 1 Maso Runch — Ladin farmhouse dinner
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Tier 1 St. Hubertus ★★★ — long shot
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Tier 1 La Stüa de Michil ★ — Michelin backup
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Tier 1 Lago di Braies — check 2026 access rules
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Tier 2 Via ferrata guide (Thu 9 Jul)
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Tier 2 Rif. Locatelli lunch (Mon 6 Jul)
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Tier 2 Rif. Fanes / Lavarella lunch (Thu 9, Option A)
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Tier 2 Brixen dinner (Tue 7 Jul)
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Tier 3 Abbazia di Novacella tour
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Tier 3 Rif. Pieralongia lunch (Wed 8 Jul)
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Tier 3 Cron4 spa (optional)
Food
Day-1 grocery list (Brunico, Sat 4 Jul)▶
Best stop: Eurospar Brunico, MPreis, Despar, or Lidl. Open Sat afternoon to ~19:00.
Breakfast (7 days)
- Coffee, milk, yogurt (Vipiteno/Mila), müsli, eggs, butter, jam (Preiselbeer / apricot), seasonal fruit
- Bread: buy fresh 2–3× from bakery
Picnic / hike lunches
- Speck Alto Adige IGP, prosciutto, salami
- Cheese: Stelvio DOP, Bergkäse, Almkäse, Asiago
- Bread + tomatoes + cucumbers + peppers
- Apples, bananas, energy bars, chocolate, nuts
Dinners at home (4 nights)
- Pasta, risotto rice, polenta, pesto + sugo
- EVOO, balsamic, garlic, onion, lemon, salad greens
- 1 fish + 1 meat (sausage or game)
- Frozen pizza emergency
- Drinks:
- Local craft beers (Forst, Stift Neustift abbey beer, Hopfen & Mehr, or whatever Eurospar has)
- Local syrups: elderflower (Holunder) + raspberry (Himbeer) — for sparkling-water highballs or cocktails
- Sparkling water (still + frizzante), tonic water, lemons + limes
- Optional cocktail kit: a bottle of Z44 (Roner) gin — South Tyrol craft gin, excellent with tonic + alpine herbs. Or Aperol/Campari for spritzes.
- For Karlo: 1–2 bottles of choice (Eisacktaler Sylvaner is the local highlight; or a Lagrein red)
Estimated total: €120–180 including drinks.
Restaurants — full shortlist▶
Splurge tier
- St. Hubertus ★★★ — San Cassiano. Niederkofler. Months ahead.
- La Stüa de Michil ★ — Corvara. Romantic stube.
Cocktails / aperitivo
- Hotel La Perla bar (Corvara) — beautiful hotel cocktail bar. Stop here for a pre-dinner drink if you're going to La Stüa de Michil, or visit just for the bar.
- Rosa Alpina bar (San Cassiano) — fancy hotel bar; same logic if you're at St. Hubertus.
- Brixen Domplatz / Stadelgasse — wander these streets in the evening; modern aperitivo terraces.
- Cortina Corso Italia — lots of aperitivo terraces if you go on Friday afternoon.
Atmospheric / local
- Maso Runch — San Martino in Badia. 8-course Ladin set. Local anchor.
- Lüch da Pcëi — agriturismo alternate.
Brixen (Tue)
- Vitis, Sunnegg (terrace + sunset), Decantei (cellar), Fink, Finsterwirt
Refuge lunches
- Rif. Locatelli (Tre Cime) — iconic terrace
- Rif. Pieralongia (Seceda) — small, family-run
- Rif. Fanes + Lavarella (Fanes) — Lavarella's own beer
Local specialties + drinks▶
Eat at least once
- Canederli / Knödel — Tyrolean bread dumplings
- Casunziei — Ladin red beet ravioli, brown butter + poppy
- Schlutzkrapfen — half-moon spinach-ricotta ravioli
- Tirtlan — fried dough pockets
- Polenta + selvaggina — with venison stew
- Strudel, Kaiserschmarrn, Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings, in season!), Topfenstrudel
Drinks beyond wine
- Craft beer: Forst (regional giant), Lavarella (brewed at the refuge on Day 6 Option A!), Stift Neustift abbey beer, Hopfen & Mehr. "Ein Bier vom Fass" for tap.
- South Tyrol craft gin: Z44 (Roner) — juniper + alpine herb profile; Psenner gin. Perfect base for highballs at home or G&T at a bar.
- Alpine spirits / digestifs: Williams pear brandy, Enzian (gentian root, herbal, intense), Latschenkiefer (mountain pine), grappa, alpine herb amari.
- Sodas + syrups: elderflower (Holunder), raspberry (Himbeer), fir-tip — locally made, great with sparkling water + lemon for clean alcohol-free highballs.
- Hugo cocktail — invented in South Tyrol (Naturns). Classic version is Prosecco + elderflower + lime + mint + soda; the Prosecco can be swapped for soda + gin for a wine-free version.
- Aperol / Campari spritz — classic Italian aperitivo, at every bar with a terrace.
Wines (if you're curious)
South Tyrol whites are gentle and aromatic — Sylvaner and Kerner (Eisacktaler, near Brixen) are local heroes; Gewürztraminer is intense and floral. Reds: Lagrein (full-bodied) and Vernatsch/Schiava (light). Many restaurants will offer wine pairings — totally fine to decline and order whatever you actually want to drink.
Coffee rules
Cappuccino only before 11:00. After meals: espresso, macchiato, Verlängerter.
Markets + bakeries▶
- Brunico market: Tue + Thu mornings 08:00–12:30 on Graben.
- Brixen market: small daily, bigger Sat.
- Bakeries: San Martino panificio; Bäckerei Bachmann (Brunico); Pupp + Christoph (Brixen).
- Capriz cheese factory — Vandoies. Tours + tasting. Stop en route Tue 7 Jul.
- Pur Südtirol — regional premium store, Bolzano. Take-home gifts.
Weather & safety
Decision protocol▶
| Forecast | Plan |
|---|---|
| Clear all day | Big hike, off ridges by 16:00 |
| Isolated afternoon storms | Start 06:30, off exposed by 13:00 |
| Scattered / widespread storms | Short low-altitude hike, finish by noon |
| Morning showers, afternoon clearing | Late start (10:00), short objective |
| Rain all day | Spa / town / museum / cook |
Emergency & safety▶
- 112 — European emergency.
- 118 — Italian medical/mountain rescue dispatch.
- Helicopter rescue free for life-threatening; non-emergency may bill. Verify travel insurance.
- Before big hikes: share trailhead + route + ETA with someone in Croatia.
- Cash €100–150/day for refuges + cable cars.
- SPF + sunglasses always — UV brutal at altitude.
- Buy Tabacco maps at sport shop in Brunico (€10–12 each): 03, 07, 010, 030.
Daypack checklist▶
- Hard shell + rain pants (every day)
- Mid-layer fleece/puffy
- Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen
- 1.5–2L water each
- Lunch + snacks
- Headlamp + first-aid + blister kit
- Phone with offline maps (Komoot/Locus/OsmAnd) + Tabacco paper
- Trekking poles for descents
- Dry sack, cash, buff, TP + ziplock
Cross-trip menu
Big-hike alternates (clear day needed)▶
- Sassolungo Friedrich-August-Weg loop (Passo Sella) — ~12 km, 500m gain
- Puez-Odle traverse from Würzjoch — long, exposed
- Lago di Sorapis — 12 km, 350m gain, milky-blue lake
- Marmolada cable car + glacier + WW1 museum
Mid-effort alternates▶
- Adolf Munkel Weg under the Odle towers
- Lago di Carezza + Latemar viewpoint
- Pragser Hochalm above Lago di Braies
- Sas dla Crusc loop from La Villa
Cultural alternates▶
- Bolzano + Ötzi museum + market
- Brunico + Messner Mountain Museum Ripa
- Castelrotto + Alpe di Siusi cable car
- QC Terme Dolomiti spa (San Vito di Cadore)
- Capriz cheese factory tour
Photography priorities▶
- Sunrise: Lago di Braies (Fri 10), Tre Cime north faces (Mon 6).
- Sunset: Santa Maddalena chapel (Val di Funes), Passo delle Erbe, Alpe di Siusi.